Mouth-watering kebabs, aromatic biryani, and airy, ethereal desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has forever been a dream destination for epicures, with inhabitants and travelers alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
In a recent announcement, UNESCO recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – including it in a select group of world cities and sparking hopes that it will spotlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it enters a worldwide network of more than four hundred urban centers across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "artistic expression as a driver of sustainable urban development".
The honor "is a testament to its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and lively food ecosystem," according to a spokesperson from UNESCO's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is merely the second Indian city – after Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this highly sought-after list of 70 global destinations worldwide.
An Urban Center with a Culinary Soul
The honor for this historic city arrives as no surprise to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the view that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO designation, this adored, lively, and diverse city – the capital of India's largest state – is finally in the spotlight for what has always defined its essence: an immense love for food.
"'What will be cooked, how should it be prepared' is a constant discussion from waking up until going to bed in most homes," notes a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the quality of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The Nawabi City – as it's widely known after its historic opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its succulent kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were created, refined, and elevated to exquisite levels in their imperial kitchens.
These imperial kitchens were centers of culinary innovations, blending Persian and native Indian styles to create what became known as the culinary tradition of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. As the tale is told that the mutton galouti was created to feed an elderly nawab who had lost his teeth. His culinary artists processed the meat with raw papaya, saffron, and spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a gentle, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely closed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
Apart from the obvious kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (rich curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a rich bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is additionally a dream for plant-based eaters.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine not only showcases local ingredients but also provides the city its highly curated Indian desserts, sweets, and distinctive street food, like chaat – zesty fried snacks.
Iconic Stalls and Historic Shops
Virtually on countless corners, there are tiny kiosks and carts – little-known treasures that are wildly loved by the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, throngs of people start assembling from the crack of dawn at a renowned tea stall to get a piping hot cup of spiced tea with milk, served in earthenware cups, along with fluffy buns slathered with hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a unpretentious joint located in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still much sought-after for its hot kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Safeguarding a Culinary Heritage
The city also boasts special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is intricate and demanding. The artisan hand-churns the milk and then exposes it at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its unique frothy texture.
On chilly mornings, street vendors are often seen in old city areas like Aminabad and Chowk. Some though express concern that their children do not want to learn the craft.
A renowned chef from Lucknow has frequently stated that the city's immense food legacy positions it among the best of the Indian street food experience. The true benefit from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will occur only if Lucknow can now build recognition about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – crafted by generational food businesses, from humble street carts to lively restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is believed, will encourage more people around the world to learn these stories and experience the city to taste the culinary delights of Lucknow.
